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Apparently it is a known fault - the fault isn't that common but it happens in the same way each time.Īpologies in advance for the description - I didn't really understand anything I was told!: The mechanic at the MTB park had a look, thought he recognized the issue and called Fox to confirm. I had a similar issue with my RP23 from a Specialized Enduro while on holiday in New Zealand. Are there any brands of shock oil that are known to be significantly more thermally stable? I'd think not, or wouldn't Fox use it?
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Changes to oil weight will affect the feel of the shock at all temperatures and the damping will still get lighter as it heats up. Basically, if you want a shock that is consistent on long descents you need a coilover with piggyback (lots of oil to absorb heat & lots of surface area to lose it).Īny changes you make to the pressure will only affect the progressiveness/overall spring rate. I think that you'd still feel the compression damping fade and the air spring get stiffer from heat. Rockshox's thermally sensitive, expanding rebound needle is a novel solution and my friend who's testing it says it works great on long DH runs. I think Push's staged rebound cures this some but it will still get faster when the shock heats up. I feel this on my Mojo but it's the price you pay to descend hard on a lightweight shock. Small oil volume surrounded by an insulating air can is the issue. You can remedy this by adding air pressure until the shock extends, then slowly compressing the shock through 25% of its travel 10-20 times.Since heat/fading/oil thinning is the problem I don't see any solution. In this condition the shock will compress into its travel and not fully extend. Releasing the air pressure too quickly can induce a condition in which the negative chamber has more pressure than the positive chamber.When releasing air from the air chamber, it is important to do this slowly so the shock can transfer air from the negative to positive chamber and then be realeased through the Schrader valve.
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Hold the shock at this point for a few seconds to allow the air to transfer from the positive to the negative chamber. You can equalize the air chambers by slowly compressing the shock until you feel and hear a transfer of air. In this condition the shock will be very stiff and can top-out.
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